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1. When do I need a permit?

Permits are required before beginning any new construction, alterations, or repairs.  Below is a list of common projects that require a permit.

NOTE: This is not intended to be an exhaustive list. Please contact our office if you have questions as to whether your project requires a permit.

Building-  Additions, decks/hot tubs, bath remodels, basement finish, demolition, fencing over 6' (can go right on property line, but suggested to leave enough room to maintain in and around it), kitchen remodels, new construction, pools (above ground, in ground & soft-sided inflatables capable of holding 24" of water), porch enclosures, roofing, shed/gazebo (Zoning sign-off only for sheds under 200 sq.ft. as of May 2014), solar panels (roof and ground mount), vinyl siding, and window replacements.

Electrical- Standby generators, wiring for portable generators, electrical service upgrades, new outlets/wiring.
Mechanical- Air conditioning, boilers, heat pumps, wood/pellet/gas stoves or inserts, oil tanks (install or removal, underground, above ground or in basement), pool heaters.

Plumbing- Gas lines, water heaters, new plumbing or extensive plumbing repairs.

Gas- Propane tanks (above ground and in ground).

2. I need to have an upgrade or some other change done to my electric service. What do I need to do?

In order to change your electrical service you will need to do the following:

1. Obtain a permit from Eversource (electricity supplier) for your licensed electrician to cut and reconnect your electric service, or make arrangements with Eversource for them to perform the cut and reconnect.
2. Come into the Land Use Office and pick up an Electrical Permit Application.
3. Complete the application forms and return them to the Land Use Office. Be sure to have your CRS Number from Eversource - it is required on the permit application form.
4. After you receive your permit, have your electrician perform the work. When the work is completed, schedule an inspection through the Land Use Office at 860-887-5581, ext. 103.

3. What permits do I need to install a pool or spa on private property?

View the Outdoor Swimming Pools, Spas or Hot Tubs Application Packet (PDF) for detailed information. Supplemental Information for Outdoor Swimming Pools, Spas or Hot Tubs (PDF)

4. Is a permit required for a pool with an inflatable top ring that rises as water is added?

Yes, any pool that is capable of containing water 24 inches or more in depth would require a permit.

5. Is a permit required for a shed?

Yes, however a building permit is not required for sheds under 200 sq. ft., a zoning permit is required regardless of size.

6. How long is my permit good for?

In accordance with section R105.5, every permit issued shall become invalid unless the work authorized by such permit is commenced within 180 days after its issuance, or if the work authorized by such permit is suspended or abandoned for a period of 180 days after the time the work is commenced. The Building Official is authorized to grant, in writing, one or more extensions of time, for periods of not more than 180 days each. The extensions shall be requested in writing and justifiable cause shall be demonstrated. Exception, the Building Official shall be authorized to specify an expiration date of not less than 30 days, nor more than 180 days for commencement of work under permits issued to abate unsafe conditions pursuant to Section R115 of this code. Work performed under such permits shall be completed as expeditiously as possible.

7. Can I perform all the work on my own house?

Yes, according to Connecticut General Statute section 20-340(11) persons engaged in the installation, maintenance, repair and service of glass or electrical, plumbing, fire protection sprinkler systems, solar, heating, piping, cooling and sheet metal equipment in and about single-family residences owned and occupied or to be occupied by such persons; provided any such installation, maintenance and repair shall be subject to inspection and approval by the Building Official of the municipality in which such residence is located and shall conform to the requirements of the State Building Code.

8. Where are ARC Fault Circuit Breakers required?

• A Group Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) was designed to protect people and equipment from electrical shock. An Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) was designed to detect arcing faults in the wiring , appliances and equipment , thereby preventing electrical fires. Two different types of protection in very similar looking devices: read the fine print, check for the NRTL marking.
• Arc faults arise from a number of situations, including:
  • Damaged-wires
  • Receptacle breakage
  • Neutral leads pinched to grounded metal box
  • Worn electrical insulation
  • Loose electrical connections
  • Shorted wires
  • Wires or cords in contact with vivrating metal
  • Overheated or stressed electrical cords and wires
  • Misapplied/damaged appliances
• AFCI protection is required to protect the entire branch circuit (with some exceptions for the first section of unspliced cable). Generally, the most cost effective way of achieving this is to installation AFCI circuit breaker in the panel. 
• Section210.12(A)  lists 5 different methods of achieving code compliance. For new construction, only the first method (combination-type arc-fault circuit interrupter installed as a circuit breaker) is the practical choice. The other 5 choices are viable option, but should only be rarely used.
• Circuit coverage's are computed the same way as always (3VA per square foot of dwelling area served: 220.12,220.14(J). A 15 amp circuit at 120 volts can supply 1800 VA. AT 3 VA per square foot this yields 600 square feet of floor area per required general lighting load circuit. This combines both room lighting outlets and general purpose receptacle outlets. Several rooms can be3 combined onto one branch circuit. There are no upper limits on the number of general duty receptacles on anyone branch circuit in dwelling units.
• Old Code: a Combination AFCI (CAFCI) delivers 5 kinds of protection:
  • 1) Parallel protection - Just like its Branch/Feeder counterpart, Combination AFCI can detect and neutralize parallel arc faults.
  • 2) Series Protection- A series arc fault is the unintended flow of electricity over a gap within a single wire. Theses arc faults were not detectable until advanced technology allowed the development of the Combination AFCI breaker.
  • 3) Ground protection- Arcing between a single conductor and aground line.
  • 4) Overload protection.
  • 5) Short circuit protection.
• Old code AFCI breakers are still out there. Be sure your AFCI breakers are Combination AFCI (CAFCI) breakers.
• (Combination parallel and series fault, that is) A  parallel fault is an arcing from the hot conductor to either the ground or grounded conductor. Causes include cable staples too tight or a screw or nail too long, which shorts between the cable conductors. A series arcing fault is an open in any current carrying conductor that is arcing. This includes any cords connected to the circuit, brushes in motors in appliances that arc and faulty switches that arc. The newer code compliant CAFCI devices will open the circuit for any of these conditions.
• While AFCI protection is required for the entire branch circuit, GFCI protection is required only for receptacles can be wired to protect the circuit wiring and receptacles "downstream" from the GFCI receptacle. This is why electricians used the GFCI receptacle whenever possible, it is significantly less expensive.
• Typically, in the past, electricians would purchase a circuit breaker to protect the conductors, and install GFCI receptacle only where needed. The new code will not allow this anymore, except for lighting and receptacles, accessory buildings and bathrooms.
• Receptacles in the garage are required by Section 210.52(G) (I) to be fed by a separate circuit, with no other outlets outside of the garage. This means, this circuit may also supply garage lighting outlets, with out AFCI protection, if there are no garage lighting switches inside the house. Of course the receptacle outlets in the garage will still need GFCI protection (210.8(A) (@), and be located at least one per car parking space.